Arigato, Japan

Discover the nature, culture and history of the Kansai region – cruise the waterways of Osaka, and stroll old Kyoto’s cobbled lanes.

THERE’S A WORD you should start practising before you arrive in Japan – arigato. It means “thank you” and you’ll use it frequently, because there’s a lot to be thankful for in the almost 7000 islands that spread themselves across the Sea of Japan.

Your first arigato should go to Tokyo for its buildings that push high into the clouds, to the city’s neon-covered everything and permanent state of rush hour. “In a pie chart of Japan, Tokyo takes up most of the pie,” says guide Michiko Morowaki. But while the Japanese capital is a solid choice for an urban break, make the time to climb aboard at least one Shinkansen, the famously ecient bullet trains, to explore other regions of this exciting country. 

Kansai, on the western side of Japan, is a good option and has a fine mix of city and country, history, tradition and culture. Comprising seven prefectures, the region takes in the former Japanese capitals Kyoto and Nara, as well as the city of Osaka, picturesque fishing villages, forested lakes and traditional hot-spring towns. Japan’s second most populous area after Tokyo, Kansai is widely regarded as Japan’s cultural and historical heartland.

ON THE WATER What’s better than a cruise along Osaka’s many canals? A sake cruise that loops through the watery veins of the Yodogawa, Okawa and Shirinashi Rivers.

The Kansai region produces around 45 percent of Japan’s sake, and the perfect place to sample it is on the water. Captain Hiromi Nakamo welcomes us aboard his former fishing boat for the 60-minute sake cruise. As he serves the fermented rice drink and fires up compact gas barbecues to cook dried octopus and vegetables, we glide gently under some of the city’s 800 bridges. 

Although much of Osaka was flattened during World War II, there are still intriguing glimpses of the past, including Osaka Castle, built by samurai in 1583, which dominates the skyline.

Dotonbori is still the best place to shop, drink and stay up late.

KITCHEN OF THE NATION We finish at Dotonbori, which has been Osaka’s food, shopping and entertainment HQ since around 1612, when theatres and tea houses set up here. Today, it’s still the beating heart of the city and the best place to shop, drink and stay up late. It’s also the best place to bring a healthy appetite. Osaka is known as “Japan’s kitchen” and numerous eateries line Dotonbori’s main thoroughfare and the cobbled streets that spin o it. Start your culinary adventure with okonomiyaki, a specialty sometimes billed as Japan’s answer to pizza. It’s a thick pancake with cabbage, meat, vegetables, cheese and mochi – glutinous rice cakes – cooked on an open grill. Takoyaki – tiny pancake balls with octopus, pickled ginger and spring onion – is another favourite. 

Make sure to save room for sushi, which tastes even better when you’ve made it yourself. We start our class with a stroll through the narrow alleyways of Tsuruhashi Fish Market, playing the “name that seafood” game. After buying fresh tuna and mackerel, it’s time to sit cross-legged on tatami mats, learning how to turn the seafood into sushi.

CITY OF KNIVES A 20-minute drive from Osaka city is Sakai, a city where history whispers from every corner. Sakai is probably best known for its ancient Kofun burial mounds, including the fifth-century tomb of Emperor Nintoku. The best place to see these remarkable structures is from the top floor of Sakai City Hall, where the observation lobby looks out over the burial mounds. 

There’s another reason to visit Sakai: to buy one of the region’s renowned knives (it’s said that around 90 percent of Japanese chefs own a knife made in Sakai). They’ve been perfecting the art of traditional knife-making here for 600 years, so they know what they’re doing. Head to the second floor of the Sakai City Traditional Crafts Museum to see how each knife is hand-forged by artists, before heading downstairs to buy one.

INTO THE WOODS You may have heard of shinrin-yoku or forest bathing, the increasingly popular Japanese practice of slowing down and immersing oneself in nature, which is said to lower the heart rate and blood pressure and boost the immune system. A good place to get your fill of nature is at Biwako Valley, where you’ll be surrounded not only by trees but also by water. Lake Biwa is Japan’s largest fresh-water lake, and one of the country’s sources of drinking water. Hire an e-bike and follow the path around the lake or step aboard the old-school paddle steamer that plies the southern end of the lake.

Afterwards, take the five-minute 1.1km journey on Japan’s fastest cable car, to the summit of Mt Uchimi, to marvel at the views over the lake. Time your visit for winter and you can head to the adjacent ski field; in summer, zip through the trees on the Biwako Valley Zipline.

CULTURAL CAPITAL Travel on the bullet train from Tokyo to Kyoto and you might wonder where Mt Fuji has gone. But if you’re lucky and the clouds are elsewhere, around 40 minutes after leaving Tokyo Station you’ll get a glimpse of the majestic landmark.

You might also want to say arigato to whoever established Kyoto in the seventh century. This graceful city, sliced in two by the Kamogawa River, is a hub of traditional Japanese culture, where Shinto shrines and Buddhist temples rub shoulders with impossibly green bamboo that sways rhythmically in the breeze. Kyoto is the heart of Japan’s geisha world; young women train for more than five years to perfect the traditional arts and skills of the geisha.

GOLDEN HOURS Arashiyama Bamboo Grove, a dense bamboo forest half an hour’s drive west of the city, is a good place to escape the urban noise. Wooden paths crisscross the dense thicket of bamboo stalks that reach high into the sky, creating a green and restful canopy – and one of the most photographed spots in Kyoto. We’re advised to visit at either sunrise or sunset to avoid the tourist crowds – and enjoy the “golden hours” at the start and end of the day.

If you only visit one shrine, make it Fushimi Inari Taisha. It is recognisable by its striking crimson archways (torii gates) that lead to the Shinto shrine dedicated to Inari, the god of rice, sake and prosperity.

Venture beyond the gates to check out the network of forest trails that lead to the top of sacred Mt Inari.

Pro tip: turn o your map-app when exploring Gion entertainment area, the base of traditional geisha, and packed with restaurants, tea houses and shops. Get wonderfully lost wandering through the narrow lanes, traditional buildings on one side and the canal on the other. Sneak a peek into lantern-lit courtyards and, if you’re lucky, spot beautifully dressed geisha as they go about their graceful business.

Eat

TEPPANYAKI MYDO Tucked into the ground floor of the W Osaka hotel, this popular eatery serves traditional teppan cuisine in a creative space designed by a local artist. Take a seat around the grill and sip a Japanese highball as you watch talented chefs turn out everything from vegan gyoza (dumplings) to octopus with muscat grapes. marriott.com

KOUGARYU Osaka has lots of takoyaki outlets selling the deep-fried octopus goodness, but Kougaryu is one of the most popular. The offerings here are fast and filling.

GRILL & DINING G This restaurant on the 12th floor of Lake Biwa Marriott Hotel has one of the best views in town – across the lake and to the mountains that encircle it. There’s a mix of Japanese and Western cuisine, such as braised beef with miso, and cream cheese mousse with rice malt. You’ll love the super-fresh sushi. marriott.co.jp

Sleep

W OSAKA If you’re familiar with the W hotel brand, you’ll know that they take “cool” to a whole other level. The Osaka outpost, the W’s first in Japan, does nothing to dispel that reputation. Its 337 rooms are accessible via a neon tunnel and are a joyous mix of quirky and luxurious. Four restaurants, a pool, courtyard and spa, plus “disco” elevators ensure a fun stay. marriott.com

CHIKURININ GUMPOEN Experience Japanese culture by staying at this ryokan (fully catered traditional inn) near Lake Biwa. With classic tatami mats, mattresses on the floor and sliding doors, this four-star accommodation was once a Buddhist monastery. Take off your shoes and swap western clothing for a soft yukata (bathrobe). There’s a restaurant and bar, a stunning Japanese garden and an onsen (traditional bathing house) on the ground floor. chikurin.co.jp